This route is on Hen and Chicken Rock, a 100 foot high, satellite crag that rests at the SE corner of the East Owl.

Take the appraoch trail that branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake Trail; it leads directly to the buttress' base.  Identify a large, clean left-facing corner (

Cackle Crack

).  Rhode Island Red starts in a thin seam on the arete right of the corner (scary crux, RPs), then follows a good 5.9 hand crack across the wall to merge with

Cackle Crack

at the top of the corner.

Rhode Island Red

Cackle Crack

Two In The Pink

Unknown

Yosemite Crack

Rooster Tail

Hagakure

This route is on Hen and Chicken Rock, the 100 foot high buttress (with a pointy summit) just below the SE corner of the East Owl.  Take the approach trail which branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake Trail, and lead right to the rock.  Cackle Crack is the excellent hand crack in the large, left-facing corner on the rock's right side.  Climb it to where it becomes a finger crack and belay on a ledge below the summit block; go north and hike down east to descend.

This stout little pitch is found on the small slab between Rooster Tail (on The Hens and Chickens) and the Yosemite Crack crag. It's the obvious, thin, left-leaning seam that splits the center of the slab. Start in a steep, left-facing corner down and left of the seam. Climb the corner, hand traverse right and stand up to where two cracks diverge. The one on the right can be climbed at 5.7ish (One In The Stink), but it isn't nearly as cool, or clean, as the seam on the left. Climb the seam with excellent protection (small stoppers and RPs) to a desperate crux at its top where it meets a right-angling crack. Either hand traverse right on the crack or get your feet up in it and top out more directly.

This is a pretty fun route that sees little traffic and so is a bit dirty but could clean up nicely. There seems to be a couple ways to climb this section of the wall, but we followed the wide crack down low and the obvious flaring corner/chimney higher up.

Start behind a boulder at the base of 2 parallel cracks (6 inch crack on left and hand-size on right). Climb the wide crack on the left for about 25 feet. At this point, you could take the seemingly easier route straight up if desired.... We went left and climbed a nice large flared corner/chimney for another 25 feet requiring some good ol' fashion jamming (hand/fist) and chimney technique. It gets much more narrow for the last 10 feet but then quickly puts you on easy terrain at the top of the Hen and Chickens formation. Climb easy terrain for another 20 feet or so before belaying at the top close to the walk off trail.

If anyone knows the real name or who did the first ascent, please let me know and I'll update this entry.

This is the [50 foot] splitter jam and offwidth crack on the formation 100 feet left of the main Hen and Chickens formation (the question is, which is the Hen and which is the Chicken).  Jam up the progressively widdening crack to the top.  [Hands, fists, and a hint of the OW at the top.] Set a belay in cracks above (there may be bolts - I don't remember).  Scramble off right ot left.  [It can easily be top-roped off of gear.]

Per

Charles Vernon

: take the approach trail which branches left after about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake trail (marked for Bowls of the Owls/Hen and Chicken). Go to the base of Hen and Chicken Rock (see routes 60-63), and scramble a short ways west to the base of the crack.

[Ed. This description includes 2 submissions...simplifing this to one entry in the database.]

This route is on the Hen and Chicken Rock (to quote one guidebook, when is a hen not a chicken?), which is the small, 100 foot high buttress (with pointy top) just below the SE corner of the East Owl.  The approach that leaves the Gem Lake trail after about 1/4 mile leads directly to it.  Rooster Tail is the prominent right-arcing hand and fist crack on the left side of the rock; near the top, follow a thin finger crack that slashes back left (crux).  Walk off east.

A good toprope problem or fairly scary lead, Hagakure is on Hen and Chicken Rock, the small buttress directly below the SE corner of the East Owl (about 100 feet high, with a pointy summit). The approach trail which branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake trail leads directly to it.

The route starts in the large left-facing corner on the right side of the rock (

Cackle Crack

). Branch out left in a tricky 5.11 crack after about 10 feet. Reach a small ledge, rest, and continue up a right-angling seam, with some fixed pitons (crux).

Rappel from a fixed anchor or continue on

Cackle Crack

. You can scramble up to a ledge below the summit block to set up a toprope off of gear, but it is almost as easy and much nicer to lead

Cackle Crack

to the same spot.

Description

Protection

Routes in Hen and Chickens