Do you love dirt?  How about lichen?

Approach the crag as described in the rock description, and go up the slot to the small rock ledge at the base of the cliff, as for Right Crack.

Rack up and step onto the wall up and right.  Immediately step left and begin working your way up a broken crack system, up and toward the top of the rock, staying mostly to the left side.  The crux is either at the bottom, or just below the middle of the route, depending upon your skill sets.  Toward the top head up and right under a bulge to finish directly under the rap anchors (2 bolts with chains)

There are some significant runouts on this route, which is covered in lichens in some spots, and crumbly in others.  Some craftiness with gear is required to lead this route at all.  Serious injury would be the potential consequence of a fall.

This route is a 1-star route because the moves were fun, but if lichen bugs you, you might consider this a bomb.

Dirty Love

Can't Please Everyone

Right Crack

The Illusionist

Topiary

Good route up through some overhanging rock to a steep face.

Getting past the third bolt is the crux.

Cool moves

Approach the crag as described in the rock description, and go up the slot to the small rock ledge at the base of the cliff.

Rack up and step onto the wall up and right.  Follow a diagonal crack (thin, little pro) up and right to a vertical crack at the right side of the wall.  Follow a system of two thin cracks upwards, side-pulling and using a lot of slopers for feet, switching sides of the crack system as needed.  Toward the top of the route, there are two fixed pins, a KB and an old soft-iron pin.  Both are reasonable, but the KB should not be implicitly trusted.

Once both pins are clipped, execute the crux moves to reach the top.

There are some minor runouts in this route for 5.10- moves.  Some craftiness with gear makes the route relatively safe to lead.  Serious injury from a fall seems unlikely.

This route, if cleaned of the lichen, might earn two stars.

The crux is getting over the roof and keeping it together for the next 3-4 clips. Great route...Maybe the best in the Sherwood Forest area.

Getting established over the roof is the crux.

Description

Protection

Routes in Garden Party Wall